NE Sunday
evening in February, Benjamin Deyo and three companions gathered to
admire a side of Grand Central Terminal that most people never
see.
Disguised in the commuter's uniform of crisp suit and buffed
shoes, they entered an out-of-service platform on the lower level,
walked to the end, hopped down to the tracks and climbed up into a
hallway lined with pipes. For the next 100 yards these members of a
four-year-old New York group called Jinx held their ties to their
chests as they ducked under scalding blasts of steam from broken
pipes marked "Warning: Asbestos."
Inside a dark chamber perhaps 80 feet below street level, as
trains clunked and whirred overhead, Mr. Deyo, 30, skirted a pool of
water, climbed a slope of Manhattan schist and took in the view.
"This is a purely utilitarian landscape, and the people who built it
never meant for us to see these structures," he said from his perch.
"Yet it is so beautiful here. Look at all this steel, the tracks,
all the work that went into this."
The group's feats are as illicit as they are daring: its members
are courting injury and risking fines for criminal trespass.
Jinx is one New York version of a large and loosely organized
global network of urban explorers — also called infiltrators — who
penetrate tunnels, abandoned hospitals, missile silos and other
forbidden places. The fact that these places defy traditional
aesthetics only makes them more attractive to those who enjoy
architecture's underbelly as much as flauting authority. (Building
officials were shocked to learn of these activities.)
The more off-limits a setting, it seems, the better. One group in
Minneapolis kayaks in storm drains. A man in Dover, England, goes
into the area's World War II batteries and barracks. In Berlin, some
have entered a bunker under the Alexanderplatz. A group of Paris
women, the K-ta Nanas, sneaks among the catacombs beneath the city,
sometimes navigating the wet passages in bikinis.
Abandoned architecture, from houses in Pompeii to the Mayan ball
courts at Tikal, has always attracted the curious. But interest in
illicit visits has exploded since the early 1990's, nourished by the
Internet.
Some who visit these sites are content to be armchair explorers.
Others like living out their Walter Mitty fantasies but say they
carefully weigh the dangers. Nevertheless, it's easy for an outsider
to think these infiltrators have abandoned common sense.
"What we are doing is inherently dangerous," Mr. Deyo warned.
"Remember the laws of gravity. Listen for trains. And don't urinate
on the third rail — the electricity will travel upstream and into
your body."
Once inside a narrow Metro North tunnel, with a headlight bearing
down on them, they scanned nervously for an exit, crossing the high-
voltage third rail and ducking into an archway cut into a filthy
concrete wall. Just feet away, oblivious Harlem Line passengers
rolled on by.
A set of stairs led up to a door marked North Emergency Exit 13.
Suddenly they were standing on 56th Street and Park Avenue, about 14
blocks from their starting point. Back they went for a different
perspective. Mr. Deyo led his crew into the terminal through an
unmarked door on Vanderbilt Avenue that leads to a bar. "Are you
with the party, sir?" the coat check attendant asked. "Yes," Mr.
Deyo declared as he continued up a marble staircase to an
out-of-the-way elevator that took the group several stories
higher.
Soon the four men were at the peak of the station's sloped copper
roof, this time nearly 80 feet above the street, with a stunning
view of the Chrysler Building and the modernist towers on Park
Avenue.
Mr. Deyo, a co-owner of a multimedia design company, is famous
among fellow infiltrators for having crossed this slippery roof to
scale a statue of Mercury, which rises another three stories. Nearly
two years ago he hung the Jinx flag, an exclamation point set inside
a yellow triangle (the international icon for "Danger") on a black
field, on Mercury's crown; a remnant still flapped in the wind.
"We could explore our whole lives and never make the history
books, but at least we could say that we found this," Mr. Deyo said,
spreading his arms exuberantly.
He has also scaled the Manhattan and Williamsburg Bridges and
considers himself a specialist in heights. When it comes to
exploring the New York underground, he bows to another infiltrator,
Julia Solis, a writer and translator in her 30's, who is known for
leading elaborate incursions, like the formal candlelight dinner
party for 40 she held in an active subway tunnel in 1999.
Among those who have joined Ms. Solis is Suzanne Martin, 33, of
Coopersburg, Pa., who came to New York last month to trek down an
abandoned 19th-century water tunnel in the Bronx populated by
hibernating bats. Ms. Martin said she had previously explored
abandoned farmhouses near her home in Bucks County. "I'd poke around
and kind of soak in that feeling one gets from long-empty places,"
Ms. Martin said. "It really hadn't occurred to me that others might
share my interest or brand of aesthetics."
Lowell Boileau, 55, who began infiltrating abandoned buildings in
Detroit in the mid-1970's, said he experiences the same wonderment
standing inside the city's abandoned Michigan Central train station
that he first felt at the ruins of Ephesus, in Turkey, in 1971. His
Web site, www.detroityes.com/index.html, shows dozens of abandoned
Detroit landmarks and attracts about 1,000 visitors a day.
Mr. Boileau warned that it may be best to enjoy the sites from a
computer screen; he recalled one man who jumped down onto a roof
covered with debris and crashed to his death through a skylight.
"Anyone going into buildings should beware of structural weaknesses
from scavengers and deterioration," he said. "I don't advise
it."
For some infiltrators, of course, danger is appealing. But most
say that they are more attracted by the haunting and beautiful
environments. Adding to their allure are the evocative artifacts
they discover, like coal bins, elaborate murals and decorative
tiles. As much as they admire these features, they are careful to
say they rarely, if ever, take them. Their unofficial code is look
but don't touch. Ms. Solis's Web site advocates "a safe appreciation
of ruinous landscapes that is respectful of other people and
environments."
"Please do not tag, steal or vandalize," it says.
Aside from the infiltrators' own honor system, abandoned
structures are generally not protected from vandalism by
preservationists. For example, the New York City Landmarks
Preservation Commission tends not to designate abandoned buildings
because they cannot be adequately supervised.
Many infiltrators have been drawn to these places since
childhood. Ms. Solis remembers growing up in Hamburg, Germany, and
leading neighborhood children to see imaginary corpses in storm
drains. "No one would go into the drains but me," she said. "I felt
so at ease there."
Like most infiltrators, Ms. Solis routinely trespasses, risking
trespassing fines that vary from state to state. She has had brushes
with security guards but has never been caught. The maximum jail
sentence in New York would be 15 days on trespassing charges, said
Vincent E. Doyle III, chairman of the criminal justice section of
the New York State Bar Association. And unless a property is clearly
marked off-limits, he added, "there might not be any violation at
all." In Minnesota, on the other hand, trespassers can get as much
as 90 days.
Marjorie Anders, a spokeswoman for Metro North, was dumbfounded
to hear about those who see the station as a 47-acre infiltration
challenge. "That activity would be unwise and unsafe and
unappreciated," she said. "There are live third rails and trains
moving around and we don't want any fatalities."
In February, during her first exploration of an abandoned
876-acre mental hospital complex on the North Shore of Long Island,
Ms. Solis was careful not to be seen, and seemed unperturbed by
risks. She and her partner for the day, Chris Beauchamp, 24,
searched for an entry point.
"There's a hole, and there's no cover on it," she called. He
dropped down a ladder and lighted an old- fashioned miner's lamp
attached to his hard hat. The three-inch open flame illuminated Ms.
Solis as she followed gracefully in black boots, a Prada skirt and a
short shearling coat. ("I always dress well, to get more respect if
I run into guards or the police," she said.)
The miner's lamp left carbon marks on the seven-foot-high
concrete ceiling. Asbestos insulation crumbled in the moist, still
air. Raccoon prints the size of human hands marked the steam pipes.
Judging from an aerial photograph of the hospital campus, which
she found on the Internet, Ms. Solis said she believed they were
headed toward an old boarded-up Georgian- style building she had
seen near the tunnel entrance. (An agreement not to disclose the
location was a condition of joining her.) Ms. Solis is drawn to the
mix of the grand and the utilitarian found in hospitals, and she
often spends entire nights going from room to room by flashlight,
occasionally terrorized by her own imagination.
After an hour in the dark, she led the way through a narrow brick
passageway supported by steel beams dripping rusty stalactites.
Several hundred yards later they climbed through a manhole into a
1960's medical building. Layers of colored paint flaked from the
walls like confetti. A torn portrait of Lincoln looked up from the
floor. The windows were small and escape-proof. In 19th- and
early-20th-century hospitals she has come across elaborate bowling
alleys, theaters and marble lobbies.
But even this plain, modern building had nice surprises. She
climbed out a window onto the roof and tried to imagine how a mental
patient would react to the wide blue view of Long Island Sound.
A quarter mile away she could see the tall, century-old building
she had originally headed for. She knew there had to be a way in,
and she was determined someday to find it.